There are spirits you taste, and there are spirits that make more sense once you understand where they come from.
That distinction shaped an intimate Rhum Barbancourt dinner Sept. 10 at Shelby, downtown Detroit’s speakeasy, where guests were invited to experience the Haitian rum through a three-course meal and cocktail pairings while learning the history and production methods behind one of Haiti’s most recognized exports.
Jean-Baptiste Robert, CEO of Crillon Importers, Rhum Barbancourt’s exclusive U.S. importer and brand partner, explained that the foundation of Barbancourt dates back to an unusual idea: applying techniques associated with cognac production to Haitian sugar cane juice.
That includes distillation methods and aging in Limousin oak, a French oak traditionally associated with cognac. But Robert emphasized that the raw material matters just as much as the barrel.
Unlike many rums made from molasses, Rhum Barbancourt is made from pure sugar cane juice — reflected in the French spelling “rhum.” Robert described molasses as a byproduct of sugar production, meaning much of the sugar cane’s original aromatic character has already been removed before distillation.
“Distillation is concentration,” he told guests, explaining that the process can intensify what exists in the raw material, but it cannot create flavor that was never there.
That philosophy became easier to understand as the dinner unfolded.
The evening opened with an apéritif of Rhum Barbancourt 15 Years, black walnut bitters, orange bitters and gomme syrup, paired with pan con tomate.
The first course featured a white Barbancourt daiquiri with passion fruit, falernum and lime alongside a little gem salad. Bright and acidic, it highlighted the livelier side of the cane-based spirit.
A Haitian Highball followed, made with Barbancourt 8 Years and yuzu soda, paired with a choice of roasted half chicken, filet of beef or roasted carrots. The highball was clean and refreshing, allowing the aged rum to remain present without overpowering the food.
Dessert brought the richest expression: the “1804,” combining Barbancourt 4 Years with coconut, heavy cream, lime and strawberry, served alongside rum cake with brown butter, Barbancourt and ice cream.
Robert also connected Barbancourt’s character directly to Haiti. Sugar cane there is still cultivated with relatively traditional methods, often without the fertilizers and insecticides common in large-scale agriculture. He argued that forcing the plant to work harder for nutrients contributes to the intensity and complexity of the cane itself.
That made the evening more than a tasting.
The cocktails demonstrated Barbancourt’s versatility, but the conversation revealed why the spirit tastes the way it does. Behind every glass was a combination of French technique, Haitian agriculture, generational craftsmanship and a rum tradition that has endured for more than 160 years.
At Shelby, the food complemented the experience. But Haiti — its land, history and ingenuity — remained the most important ingredient.
