Detroit’s long-standing struggle with food insecurity is set to deepen as new tariffs drive up the cost of imported goods this week, making fresh and affordable groceries even harder to access. Already labeled a “food desert” due to its limited grocery options, the city’s most vulnerable residents now face rising prices that could push healthy food further out of reach. With economic pressures mounting, the question remains, can Detroit overcome its food access crisis, or will these tariffs make survival even tougher?
The USDA defines food deserts as low-income communities where a significant portion of the population lives more than a mile from a supermarket in urban areas (or more than 10 miles in rural areas).
According to a 2017 report from the Detroit Food Policy Council, nearly 30% of the city’s residents lacked easy access to grocery stores.Yet, the food landscape in Detroit is changing. While major grocery chains have largely abandoned the city over the years, independent markets, urban farms, and community-led initiatives have attempted to fill the void.
For decades, Detroit had a glaring lack of major supermarket chains. By 2007, national grocers such as Kroger and Meijer had a mass exudus from the city with the exception of two Meijer locations in the city limits, citing crime, high insurance costs, and operational challenges. This left residents to rely on smaller stores, many of which had limited fresh produce and higher prices. A 2014 study by the Fair Food Network found that only 8% of Detroit’s food retailers were full-service grocery stores, while more than 1,000 convenience stores and liquor stores dominated the landscape.
However, recent investments have changed the landscape. Meijer reentered Detroit in 2013, opening two locations, followed by Whole Foods in Midtown. More recently, chains such as Aldi and Fresh Thyme have expanded their presence, improving access to fresh food. While these developments have helped, residents could argue that large parts of the city remain underserved and are still paying unaffordable prices.
Detroit’s residents have responded to food access issues with creativity and resilience. According to Keep Growing Detroit, the city has one of the most robust urban farming movements in the country, with over 1,500 urban gardens and farms. These urban farms, such as D-Town Farm and The Greening of Detroit, provide fresh produce to neighborhoods that lack grocery stores.
Nonprofits, including food banks and local food co-ops, have also significantly brought fresh food to underserved communities. For instance, the Detroit Black Community Food Security Network has developed food-buying cooperatives and community-supported agriculture programs to address food access disparities.
Kristin Sokul, Senior Director of Advancement at Gleaners, highlighted that in the previous fiscal year, 27% of the food distributed was sourced from USDA programs. With the end of certain pandemic initiatives, along with other factors contributing to a decrease in food received from the USDA, Gleaners had already anticipated in their budget for this year that numbers would be lower compared to last year.
“We get two different sources from the federal government, and a small amount of our budget is in actual funding, Sokul said.
“Our fiscal year runs through the end of September as well. For this fiscal year, we have been advised that our funding is intact now beyond this fiscal year, obviously yet to be seen. But where the bigger challenge for us is in food resources, because we get a significant amount of food from the USDA.”
Despite these efforts, food insecurity remains a persistent issue in Detroit. According to the Feeding America network, approximately 14% of Wayne County residents experience food insecurity, with numbers significantly higher in Detroit’s lower-income neighborhoods. A 2021 University of Michigan study found that nearly 48% of Detroit households were either food insecure or at risk of becoming food insecure.
Limited access to nutritious food has serious health consequences. Detroit has one of the highest rates of diet-related illnesses in the country, including obesity, diabetes, and hypertension. The city’s high poverty rate 32% as of 2022 exacerbates these challenges, as lower-income residents often have to make trade-offs between healthy food and other necessities like rent, transportation, and medical expenses.
While Detroit has made progress in improving food access, challenges remain. Advocates argue that the city needs more investment in full-service grocery stores, better public transportation to food sources, and expanded nutrition assistance programs.
Several initiatives offer hope but not without challenge. The Detroit People’s Food Co-op, located on Woodward and Eucild in the Northend neighborhood, aims to provide fresh, affordable food while prioritizing community ownership. The Neighborhood Grocery, owned by farmer Raphael Wright, is located on the Eastside of Detroit on the corner of Manistique and Essex. Not only does he run a grocery store, but he also has a half-acre market garden.
Additionally, policy efforts, such as the Michigan Good Food Charter, push for systemic changes to ensure that all Detroiters have access to nutritious food.
Sam Stokes, Food and Farm Business Outreach Coordinator of Michigan State University Center for Regional Food Systems (CRFS), is a farmer and noted one of the biggest roadblocks to success is finding a way to get products into a profitable market while boosting attention for the 2025 National Food Hub Survey.
“Food Hubs have a huge role to play in helping healthy, local food feed our communities,” Stokes said.
“I have high hopes that this latest installation of the survey will provide data to help us continue understanding and supporting a sector that is so vital to the resiliency of regional food systems across America.”
Ultimately, whether Detroit is a food desert depends on perspective. While significant food access challenges persist, the city’s residents, urban farmers, and activists continue to reshape the narrative, demonstrating that community-driven solutions can combat food insecurity. The road ahead requires continued investment and policy support to ensure that every Detroiter has access to the fresh, healthy food they deserve.
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