Hair Wars Model, at the Hair Wars Demo at the Detroit Institute of Arts
Detroit’s 1980s nightlife wasn’t just about music; it was the stage for a hair revolution. Inside the legendary Latin Quarter nightclub, Black models didn’t just strut the runway; they transformed it into a battleground of gravity-defying hairstyles and bold creativity. What began as a local showcase by DJ David “Hump the Grinder” Humphries quickly ignited into Hair Wars. This fierce competition crowned stylists as stars and cemented Detroit’s legacy as the “Hair Capital of the World.” The Michigan Chronicle was the first to document this cultural phenomenon, causing worldwide attention.
1996 Issue of The Michigan Chronicle
Detroit’s legendary Hair Wars isn’t just a showcase; it’s a movement. Since 1985, David Humphries has championed the evolution of African American hairstyling, transforming it into a platform for innovation and artistry. As the industry embraces a new generation, Humphries is ensuring its legacy lives on, teaching in over 25 cities nationwide while Detroit stylists continue to push creative boundaries in the city that birthed the trend.
“We started in the 80s, officially, 85′. So it’s been 40 years plus of doing hair, and we’re (Detroit) the hair capital of the world,” Humphries said.
“We’ve been traveling around the country teaching people how to do Detroit hair, and that’s what many people don’t know. They know about the shows, but they don’t know about the classes.”
Hair Wars may have evolved since its extravagant peak in the ’80s, but its presence in Detroit remains strong. Recently, the Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA), one of the most prestigious museums in the country, hosted the legendary Hair Wars Demo, a powerful moment of recognition for Black artistry in a space historically reserved for classical and European works.
Hair Wars Model
Top stylists, including veteran professional Keith Matthews, showcased their skills throughout the day, elevating the experience for sports fans with the Detroit Lions and Red Wings. Through innovative designs, they transformed models into living masterpieces. This event highlighted the evolution of Black hairstyling and underscored the importance of celebrating Black creatives in prestigious cultural institutions like the Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA).
In an ongoing step to promote Black art and cultural programming, the DIA recently appointed its first Black board chair in 97 years, Lane Coleman made history in 2024. His transformative leadership aims to continue to amplify Detroit’s art scene for all cultures through impactful programming at this world-renowned institution.
Coleman acknowledged the DIA and the team for their forward thinking and placement of “7 Mile + Livernois” by Tiff Massey and “Regeneration: Black Cinema 1898 – 1971.” These exhibits were part of a plan developed years before he became board chair. He also emphasized that art serves as a common ground for everyone.
“The Detroit Institute of Art was the first encyclopedic museum in this country. (First) Museum in this country to own a Van Gogh. We also have Rembrandt; these are iconic pieces,” Coleman said.
“I call it (art) an equalizer because you can be rich, extremely wealthy, or in the middle class. We can all find a place somewhere with art.”
Coleman emphasized that Black art has become increasingly popular, with dealers and art enthusiasts making significant investments. So much so that the DIA is doing some new things with African American art.
“We’re moving the galleries because they have become more relevant,” Coleman said.
“We’re redesigning the African American galleries with contemporary and modern art. What’s going to happen when you get up front, you’ll now come to the galleries, and see the African American galleries. We’re also the first museum to have galleries designated to African American art.”
As the 1990s unfolded, Hair Wars blossomed beyond Detroit, attracting talented stylists from across the nation. This exciting event evolved into a thrilling, passionate competition where hairstylists vied for prestige, recognition, and new clients. These innovative “hair entertainers” captivated audiences with breathtaking showcases, presenting intricate and avant-garde hairstyles that dazzled with unique touches like lights, feathers, and dynamic elements.
One of the defining aspects of Hair Wars was its emphasis on “fantasy hair,” an artistic style that transcended practical hairstyling to create sculptural masterpieces. Stylists crafted towering hairdos resembling animals, city skylines, and mechanical structures. This transformation of hair into wearable art captivated audiences and positioned Hair Wars as more than a beauty event, it was a fusion of fashion, performance, and innovation.
Hair Wars Model
Born in Detroit’s underground hair scene, Hair Wars exploded into a global phenomenon, transforming from a local styling showdown into a cultural movement that redefined Black beauty and creativity. With bold theatrical performances and gravity defying hairstyles, the competition captivated audiences across the U.S. and beyond, fueled in part by coverage from the Michigan Chronicle, the first publication to help push Hair Wars into the national spotlight, landing it features in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, and Ebony, along with appearances on BET and The Oprah Winfrey Show.
Hair Wars has become a groundbreaking force in the world of hairstyling, shaping not only African American culture but also leaving a lasting mark on mainstream fashion and entertainment. With its bold and avant-garde styles, the event has inspired top celebrities like Lil’ Kim, Missy Elliott, and Nicki Minaj while offering hairstylists a powerful platform to gain national and international recognition. As a result, many have turned their exposure into thriving businesses, celebrity clients, and even their own product lines, all while elevating hairstyling to a respected art form.
Hair Wars has significantly contributed to community empowerment beyond just the beauty industry. It has created a platform for Black hairstylists to celebrate their heritage, showcase their creativity, and access economic opportunities. This event embodies the entrepreneurial spirit that has been a fundamental part of Detroit’s Black community, promoting pride and cultural identity.
Detroit artist Tiff Massey, known for her multifaceted approach to art that spans jewelry, sculpture, performance, and immersive environments, is redefining the concept of adornment and community, particularly when it comes to Black hair. Stand-out pieces from her recent exhibit 7 Mile + Livernois, ” I’ve got bundles, and I got flewed out” is a wall of green variations, weave textures, and “Baby Bling”
“The barrettes are really our first gems,” Massey said.
“And so I’m taking us through a journey, essentially. And we were nurtured, whether our parental units or an extension of that, because our families go long, right? It could be a woman down the street called grandma or auntie that you didn’t know was your grandma or auntie until later in life. It’s the culture through the diaspora, built into all of these things, in these objects specifically, and that’s what they evoke.”
Like many cultural institutions, Hair Wars has faced challenges in adapting to changing times. The rise of social media and digital platforms has transformed how hairstylists showcase their work, with Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube offering new ways to reach audiences. While this has provided opportunities for stylists to gain exposure beyond live events, it has also shifted the dynamics of competition and visibility in the industry.
Economic changes and shifts within the industry have impacted how hairstylists work as well. As independent beauty brands and influencers have become more prevalent, Hair Wars has had to innovate to stay relevant. Nevertheless, the event’s strong legacy endures, with ongoing showcases and a loyal following old and new that values the artistry and history it embodies.
Hair Wars is a celebration of artistic creativity and cultural pride. It highlights the resilience and ingenuity of Detroit’s Black hairstyling community, showcasing the endless possibilities of hair design. The event has inspired new generations of hairstylists to push the boundaries of their craft and view hair as a medium for self-expression and storytelling.
“Our hair is architecture. Nobody can do what we can do with our hair, and I think that’s what’s so fun about it because it’s so many women’s identities that they can say, I’ve had that hairstyle, I remember,” Massey said.